"The first time you get a ride on a surfboard and you are being propelled along by a wave, it’s probably as close as humans can get to being able to fly like a bird. I’ve tried to think about it and figure out what it is exactly that makes it so wonderful. I guess it’s a sense of freedom. When you’re gliding along on a wave, you are kind of leaving gravity behind—and you soar. It’s such a tremendous feeling that grips you down to your core.
Like I said, I’ve been trying to think about what it is exactly. It is much more than physical and mental; there must be some spiritual stimulation that we may not be aware of. We get something more from surfing than from other things that might be stimulating or exciting. And that’s what is so unique about surfing. There is just this little extra of this mysterious something that makes you want to come back and do it more and more."
Gerry Lopez à Liquid Salt, em Novembro do ano passado. Para ler, obrigatoriamente, aqui.