Why do you surf?

"The first time you get a ride on a surf­board and you are being pro­pelled along by a wave, it’s prob­a­bly as close as humans can get to being able to fly like a bird. I’ve tried to think about it and fig­ure out what it is exactly that makes it so won­der­ful. I guess it’s a sense of free­dom. When you’re glid­ing along on a wave, you are kind of leav­ing grav­ity behind—and you soar. It’s such a tremen­dous feel­ing that grips you down to your core.
Like I said, I’ve been try­ing to think about what it is exactly. It is much more than phys­i­cal and men­tal; there must be some spir­i­tual stim­u­la­tion that we may not be aware of. We get some­thing more from surf­ing than from other things that might be stim­u­lat­ing or excit­ing. And that’s what is so unique about surf­ing. There is just this lit­tle extra of this mys­te­ri­ous some­thing that makes you want to come back and do it more and more."

Gerry Lopez à Liquid Salt, em Novembro do ano passado. Para ler, obrigatoriamente, aqui.

2 comentários:

Filipa Marques disse...

Adorei a entrevista, muito bom mesmo!

Tens aqui um grande bolg, continua a postar coisas assim!!

Diogo Alpendre disse...

Muito obrigado Filipa!

Vai passando e sente-te livre para comentar!

Diogo aqui do blog